Compost Awareness Week

Why Every Home Gardener Should Compost

If you grow food at home, composting is one of the most useful habits you can build. It turns kitchen scraps and garden waste into nutrient-rich soil conditioner -- for free. It reduces what goes to landfill. And it makes your garden healthier from the ground up.
The best part? You don't need a big backyard, fancy equipment, or a science degree. Composting is surprisingly forgiving once you understand a few basics.
This guide covers everything you need to get started, whether you've got a sprawling patch or a single pot on a balcony.

Choosing the Right Composting System

Not all composting setups are created equal, and the best one for you depends on your space, budget, and how much effort you want to put in.
Open compost bay or bin -- The classic option. Works well if you have a backyard with room for a bin or a simple three-bay system. Good for larger volumes of garden waste and kitchen scraps. Needs turning every week or two.
Tumbler compost bin -- A sealed, rotating drum that sits off the ground. Great for smaller yards. Easier to turn (just spin it) and keeps pests out. Produces compost faster than an open bin.
Worm farm -- Perfect for apartments, balconies, and small spaces. Worms break down food scraps into worm castings (one of the best soil amendments you can get). Compact, quiet, and low-maintenance.
Bokashi bin -- A fermentation system that works indoors. You add food scraps (including meat and dairy, which most other systems can't handle), sprinkle with bokashi bran, and let it ferment for a couple of weeks. The pre-compost then gets buried in the garden or added to a regular compost bin to finish off.

What to Compost (and What to Avoid)

Composting works on a simple principle: balance your "greens" (nitrogen-rich materials) with your "browns" (carbon-rich materials). Aim for roughly a 50/50 mix by volume.
Greens (nitrogen):

• Fruit and vegetable scraps
• Coffee grounds and tea leaves
• Fresh grass clippings
• Plant trimmings
  Browns (carbon):
• Dry leaves
• Cardboard and newspaper (shredded)
• Straw or hay
• Sawdust (untreated wood only)
• Egg cartons
  Avoid adding:
• Meat and dairy (except in bokashi)
• Diseased plants
• Weeds that have gone to seed
• Pet waste
• Treated or painted wood

Getting Started: Step by Step

1. Pick your spot. Choose a level, well-drained area with some shade. Direct sun dries compost out; deep shade slows it down.
2. Start with a base layer. Lay down coarse browns like small sticks, straw, or shredded cardboard. This helps with drainage and airflow.
3. Add your scraps in layers. Alternate between greens and browns. Chop or break everything into smaller pieces -- the smaller the pieces, the faster they break down.
4. Keep it moist. Your compost should feel like a wrung-out sponge. Too dry and nothing happens. Too wet and it goes anaerobic (that's what causes the smell).
5. Turn it regularly. Every one to two weeks, give your compost a turn with a fork or aerator. This adds oxygen, speeds up decomposition, and prevents bad odours.
6. Be patient. Depending on your system and conditions, finished compost takes anywhere from 6 weeks (tumbler in warm weather) to 6 months (open bin in cooler conditions).

Troubleshooting Common Problems

It smells bad. Too many greens or too much moisture. Add more browns (shredded cardboard is great), turn it, and let it dry out a bit.
It's not breaking down. Might be too dry, too cold, or the pieces are too large. Add water, chop things smaller, and turn it more frequently.
Pests are getting in. Cover food scraps with a layer of browns every time you add them. Make sure your bin has a secure lid. Avoid adding meat or dairy to open systems.
It's attracting fruit flies. Bury food scraps under browns rather than leaving them on the surface. A fitted lid helps too.

Using Finished Compost in Your Garden

You'll know your compost is ready when it's dark, crumbly, and smells earthy -- like a forest floor. You shouldn't be able to recognise any of the original materials.
Here's how to put it to work:

• Dig it into garden beds before planting. A 5-10cm layer worked into the top 15cm of soil gives plants a brilliant foundation, especially heading into winter.
• Use it as mulch around established plants. Spread a thin layer on top of the soil to suppress weeds and retain moisture.
• Make compost tea. Soak a handful of compost in a bucket of water for 24-48 hours, then use the liquid to water your plants. It's a gentle, nutrient-rich feed.
• Add it to potting mix. Blend finished compost with potting mix at a ratio of about 1:3 for container gardens.

Take It Further with Grow It Local

Composting is just the start. If you're looking to grow more food at home, GIL+ members get quarterly heirloom seed deliveries, expert growing guides, and 15% off garden bundles (including setups with compost aerators).
You can try GIL+ free for 30 days on any annual plan. Base starts at $99/yr.
[Start Your Free Trial]
And if you're already composting, we'd love to hear what's working for you. Share your setup with the community -- the messy photos are always the best ones.
Last verified: 17 February 2026

You Don't Need a Backyard to Compost

There's a common misconception that composting requires a big yard, a dedicated bin, and a fair bit of effort. It doesn't. You can compost in an apartment, on a balcony, or even under your kitchen sink.
The core idea is simple: organic waste breaks down into soil. Your job is to give it the right conditions and let nature do the rest. This guide walks you through four different methods, so you can find the one that fits your space and lifestyle.

Four Ways to Compost (Pick the One That Fits)

1. The classic bin or bay
Best for: backyards with a bit of space.
An open compost bin or three-bay system is the traditional approach. You layer greens (food scraps, grass clippings) with browns (dry leaves, shredded cardboard), keep it moist, and turn it every week or two. It handles large volumes and produces generous amounts of finished compost. The trade-off is that it takes up space and needs regular attention.
2. Tumbler compost bin
Best for: smaller yards, people who want faster results.
A tumbler is a sealed drum that sits off the ground. You add scraps, close it, and spin it instead of turning with a fork. It keeps pests out, produces compost faster (as little as 6 weeks in warm weather), and takes up less room than an open bay. The downside is capacity -- you can't process as much volume.
3. Worm farm
Best for: apartments, balconies, small spaces.
Worms eat your food scraps and produce worm castings -- one of the richest soil amendments available. A worm farm is compact, quiet, and can live on a balcony or in a laundry. It won't handle garden waste or large volumes, but for food scraps from a household of one to four people, it's brilliant.
4. Bokashi bin
Best for: apartments, people who want to compost meat and dairy.
Bokashi is a fermentation system. You add food scraps (including meat, dairy, and cooked food), sprinkle with bokashi bran, and seal the bin. After two weeks of fermentation, the pre-compost gets buried in a garden bed or added to a regular compost bin. It's the only home system that handles all food types.

The Greens and Browns Rule

Every composting system (except bokashi, which uses fermentation) works on the same principle: balance nitrogen-rich "greens" with carbon-rich "browns." The ratio doesn't need to be exact -- roughly 50/50 by volume works well.
Greens: fruit and veg scraps, coffee grounds, tea leaves, fresh grass clippings, plant trimmings.
Browns: dry leaves, shredded newspaper or cardboard, straw, sawdust (untreated wood only), egg cartons.
Skip: meat and dairy (unless using bokashi), diseased plants, seedy weeds, pet waste, treated timber.
If your compost smells, it's usually too wet or has too many greens. Add more browns and give it a turn.

Step-by-Step: Your First Compost

1. Choose your system based on your space. No wrong answer here.
2. Set it up in a shaded, level spot (or on a balcony shelf for worm farms and bokashi).
3. Start layering greens and browns. Chop everything into small pieces for faster decomposition.
4. Keep it damp -- like a wrung-out sponge. Spray with water if it dries out.
5. Turn it every one to two weeks (bins and bays). Tumblers just need a spin. Worm farms and bokashi don't need turning.
6. Wait. Finished compost can take 6 weeks to 6 months depending on your system and climate.

What to Do with Finished Compost

Finished compost is dark, crumbly, and earthy-smelling. Use it to:

• Prepare garden beds for planting -- dig 5-10cm into the top layer of soil
• Mulch around existing plants to retain moisture and suppress weeds
• Brew compost tea -- soak compost in water for 24-48 hours and use the liquid as plant food
• Enrich potting mix at a 1:3 ratio for container gardens
  Getting compost into your beds now sets your soil up beautifully for winter planting.

Keep Growing with GIL+

If composting is the foundation, seeds are the next step. GIL+ members get quarterly heirloom seed deliveries from our Rainbow Range (20 varieties chosen for Australian gardens), expert growing guides, and 15% off the shop. Plans start at $99/yr with a 30-day free trial.
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Already composting? Share your setup with the Grow It Local community -- we love seeing what you're building.
Last verified: 17 February 2026

Composting in Australian Conditions

Composting in Australia comes with a few advantages the rest of the world doesn't get. Warmer temperatures speed up decomposition. We have longer growing seasons that produce more green material. And our soils -- which tend to be low in organic matter -- benefit enormously from regular compost additions.
But our climate also creates challenges. Hot, dry summers can dry out an open bin in days. Humid conditions in northern regions can make compost too wet. And pests are always keen to investigate anything that smells like food.
This guide covers composting with Australian conditions in mind -- from choosing the right system for your climate to using finished compost across our growing seasons.

Which System Suits Your Climate?

Hot and dry (inland, western regions):
A tumbler or enclosed bin retains moisture better than an open bay. Position it in shade and check moisture levels weekly. If you're using an open system, cover it with a tarp or hessian to slow evaporation.
Temperate (Melbourne, Adelaide, Hobart):
Any system works well here. Open bins and bays perform reliably through most of the year, though you may find decomposition slows in winter. A tumbler can speed things up in the cooler months.
Subtropical and tropical (Brisbane, Darwin, Cairns):
Decomposition is fast in warm, humid conditions -- but so is pest activity. Use a sealed tumbler or enclosed bin with a secure lid. Check moisture regularly; too wet is the more common problem. Worm farms work brilliantly here but keep them out of direct sun.
Apartments and small spaces (anywhere):
Worm farms and bokashi bins are your best options regardless of climate. Both work indoors or on a balcony.

The Science Made Simple

All composting relies on microorganisms breaking down organic matter. Your job is to feed them the right mix and give them decent working conditions.
Greens (nitrogen-rich): fruit and veg scraps, coffee grounds, grass clippings, plant trimmings. These are the fuel.
Browns (carbon-rich): dry leaves, shredded cardboard, straw, untreated sawdust, egg cartons. These provide structure and absorb excess moisture.
The ratio: Aim for roughly 50/50 greens to browns by volume. Don't stress about precision -- nature is forgiving.
Moisture: Like a wrung-out sponge. Too dry and nothing happens. Too wet and it goes anaerobic (smelly and slimy).
Air: Turning your compost adds oxygen, which keeps aerobic bacteria happy and decomposition efficient.

Seasonal Composting Tips for Australia

Autumn (March-May): The best time to build a new compost pile. Falling leaves provide abundant browns, and the temperature is ideal for decomposition. Get a pile going now and you'll have finished compost ready for spring planting.
Winter (June-August): Decomposition slows in cooler conditions. Keep turning but expect longer processing times. This is a great time to stockpile browns (shredded cardboard, newspaper) for use during summer when greens dominate.
Spring (September-November): Your compost should be working at full speed. Harvest finished compost from the bottom of the pile and use it to prepare beds for spring planting. Start a new pile with all the garden trimmings.
Summer (December-February): Watch moisture levels -- heat dries compost quickly. Water your pile if it looks dry and move bins into shade if possible. Grass clippings and garden waste are abundant, so make sure you're balancing with enough browns.

Common Problems and Fixes

Smells like ammonia: Too many greens. Add browns (shredded cardboard is the quickest fix), turn it, and let it breathe.
Slow decomposition: Usually too dry or too cold. Add water, chop materials smaller, and turn more frequently. In winter, insulating with straw or hessian can help.
Pests (rats, mice, cockroaches): Always bury food scraps under a layer of browns. Use a bin with a secure lid. Never add meat or dairy to an open system.
Too wet and slimy: Stop adding greens for a few days. Add dry browns, turn the pile to aerate, and leave the lid off in dry weather.
Fruit flies: Bury scraps beneath browns. A fitted lid helps. In warm weather, freeze scraps overnight before adding them to kill eggs.

Using Compost in Your Garden

Finished compost is dark, crumbly, and smells like a forest floor. Here's how to use it:

• Garden beds: Dig 5-10cm into the top 15cm of soil before planting. This is especially valuable heading into winter when soil needs organic matter to sustain cool-season crops.
• Mulch: Spread a thin layer around established plants to suppress weeds and hold moisture.
• Compost tea: Soak finished compost in water for 24-48 hours. Strain and use the liquid as a gentle plant feed.
• Potting mix: Blend at 1:3 with commercial potting mix for a nutrient-rich container growing medium.
• Lawn care: Spread a thin layer across your lawn in autumn to improve soil structure.

Grow More with GIL+

Great soil grows great food. If you're building your compost, the next step is deciding what to plant. GIL+ members get quarterly heirloom seed deliveries from our Rainbow Range -- 20 varieties chosen for Australian gardens -- along with Grow Along guides, expert tips from growers like Costa and Paul West, and 15% off the shop (20% for Pro members).
Try GIL+ free for 30 days on any annual plan. Base starts at $99/yr.
[Start Your Free Trial]
Composting is one of the most rewarding things you can do for your garden. Start small, stay consistent, and let the soil do the rest.
Last verified: 17 February 2026